I first had to get the Windows PC on a network, and that meant I had to add a USB WiFi dongle, and I’m really not a fan of having old Windows 7 PCs connected to the Internet, but RetinaEngrave requires it. I should mention that the previous owner(s) didn’t seem to have any issues, but then, we all know how I get along with Windows.

I mean, it would work sometimes, but there were too many failures. Plenty of people run these laser cutters with the stock control board and use RetinaEngrave software running on Windows. Oh, I should probably explain why I wanted to replace the controller. Looking to upgrade? Get that board instead.)

(If you are reading this in 2020 (or later) the C3D Mini has been replaced by the improved C3D LaserBoard. If I get time I’ll try to shoot a few new photos or do some illustrations. Some of the photos are terrible (sorry about that!) but hopefully I can explain things in text. I’ll do my best to walk through the process with this post. I replaced the existing Full Spectrum controller with a Cohesion3D Mini controller. I just completed the “upgrade” of a Full Spectrum 4th Generation Series 40w Hobby Laser.

Cohesion3d laser board